"Hollow to hem" is a crucial measurement in dressmaking and pattern drafting, specifically for garments like dresses, skirts, and gowns. It refers to the vertical distance from the hollow of the back (the deepest curve of the back waist) to the hemline. Understanding this measurement is essential for achieving a perfectly fitted and flattering garment. This guide will delve into the details, answering common questions and providing helpful tips for accurate measurement.
Why is the Hollow to Hem Measurement Important?
The hollow to hem measurement provides the overall length of the garment from the natural waistline at the back to the desired hemline. This is a critical dimension because it dictates the overall length of your garment, ensuring it falls at the intended point on your body. An inaccurate hollow to hem measurement can lead to a garment that's too short or too long, significantly impacting its fit and overall appearance.
How to Measure Hollow to Hem Accurately
Measuring hollow to hem requires precision and attention to detail. Here's a step-by-step guide:
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Find the Hollow of the Back: Stand straight and locate the deepest curve of your back waist. This point is usually a few inches below your natural waistline. Feel around until you find the most indented point.
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Measure from Hollow to Hem: Using a flexible measuring tape, measure from the hollow of the back straight down to the desired hemline. Ensure the tape is held taut but not pulled excessively tight. This measurement is your "hollow to hem" measurement.
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Consider Your Footwear: Decide whether you'll wear the garment with heels or flats. If wearing heels, account for the additional height when measuring.
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Note Any Alterations: If you require adjustments such as a longer or shorter hemline, remember to factor these into your final measurement.
What is the difference between waist to hem and hollow to hem?
The key difference lies in the starting point of the measurement. Waist to hem measures the length from the natural waistline (typically at the narrowest part of your torso) to the hem. Hollow to hem measures from the hollow of the back, which is usually situated a bit lower than the natural waistline. For many garments, especially those with fitted waists, the hollow to hem measurement provides a more accurate representation of the garment's overall length and ensures a proper fit at the back.
How to use the hollow to hem measurement in pattern making?
This measurement is critical for accurate pattern drafting and altering existing patterns. When creating a pattern, the hollow to hem measurement guides the length of the back bodice piece. When altering an existing pattern, you can adjust the length of the pattern pieces to match your accurate hollow to hem measurement ensuring the garment is sized appropriately for your body.
What should I do if my hollow to hem measurement is different on both sides?
Slight variations in your body shape can lead to slightly differing measurements on each side. It's best to take the measurement on both sides and choose the larger one to ensure a comfortable and well-fitting garment. Small differences can usually be accommodated by making adjustments during pattern construction or alterations.
How does hollow to hem measurement relate to other body measurements?
The hollow to hem measurement works in conjunction with other crucial body measurements, such as waist circumference, hip circumference, and back width, to ensure a perfect fit. These measurements collectively inform the construction of the pattern and contribute to the overall success of the garment.
By understanding and accurately measuring your hollow to hem, you take a significant step towards creating beautifully tailored and perfectly fitting garments. Remember to always take your measurements carefully and double-check your work for the most accurate results.
